On this date in 1947 several of Burma’s independence leaders were gunned down by a group of armed men in uniform while they were holding a cabinet meeting at the Secretariat in downtown Rangoon (Yangon). The assassinations were planned by a rival political group, the leader and alleged mastermind of that group being Galon U Saw. Among the assassinated was the prime minister, Aung San, father of Aung San Suu Kyi who was 2 years old at the time. Since then, this day has been celebrated in Myanmar as Martyrs’ Day, although since the military coup in 2021 there has not been much to celebrate.
Burmese meals are distinctive. Dinner consists of a main dish, rice, and an abundance of side dishes that load down the dining table. When it is safe again, save your pennies and travel to Myanmar for the full experience. Here is a recipe for mohinga which is considered the national dish of Myanmar.
Ingredients
½ cup uncooked jasmine rice
3 quarts water
4 stalks lemongrass (divided)
1 2-ounce piece ginger (unpeeled)
5 bay leaves
1 ½ teaspoons ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
2 teaspoons salt
1 scaled and gutted catfish (about 3 lbs)
80 ml cup vegetable oil
1 stalk lemongrass
¼ cup minced garlic
3 tablespoons minced ginger
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon turmeric
2 red onions
¼ cup fish sauce
salt
10 ounces fine round rice noodles
6 hard-boiled eggs
12 yellow split pea crackers
½ cup chopped cilantro
2 limes
Instructions
Heat the oven to 350°F/175°C. Spread the rice across a rimmed baking pan and bake, giving the pan an occasional stir, until the rice is an even golden color and aromatic, 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature and then pulverize in a food processor.
To make the broth, select a large wide pot that will fit the catfish comfortably with room to spare. Add the water, 3 stalks of lemongrass, whole ginger, bay leaves, black and white pepper, and salt, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Carefully lower the fish into the pot. Bring the pot back to a simmer and cook gently for 20 minutes. If necessary carefully rotate the fish during the process to be sure that it is cooked all the way through. Using tongs and a slotted spoon, lift the fish out of the broth and transfer to a bowl. Turn off the heat and let the broth sit on the stove.
When the fish is cool enough to handle, pull off the skin and discard. Separate the cooked fish from the bones. Set aside the cooked fish and return the bones plus head and tail to the pot. Bring the pot to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer. There should be about 10 cups. Give the pot a rinse, and return the broth to the pot.
In a small bowl, whisk together the powdered rice and a ladleful of the broth until no lumps remain. Stir into the broth. Bring the broth to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until it starts to thicken, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to low and cook the broth at a gentle simmer while preparing the soup.
To make the soup, heat the oil over high heat in a wok or wide skillet. Add 1 stalk of lemongrass, garlic, and ginger and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the cooked fish, paprika, and turmeric, mashing the fish gently with a spoon to turn it into a coarse paste, and cook for about 1 minute. Pour the contents of the wok into the broth and bring to a brisk simmer. Add the red onions and fish sauce. Simmer for 5 minutes more. The soup can be cooled and served the next day, or prepared now.
To cook the noodles, bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the noodles and cook, stirring often with tongs or chopsticks to prevent sticking, for 5 to 6 minutes or until softened. Turn off the heat and let the noodles sit in the water for 3 minutes. Drain in a colander, rinse under cool running water, and give the colander a shake to remove excess water. To serve, divide the noodles among bowls. Heat the soup to boiling and ladle it over the noodles. Serve the hard-boiled eggs, crackers, cilantro, and lime wedges alongside for diners to add as they wish
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