Book of Days Tales

Today is the Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos), celebrated throughout Mexico, in particular the Central and South regions, and by people of Mexican heritage elsewhere. The holiday is sometimes called Día de los Muertos in Anglophone countries, a false back-translation from English of its original name, Día de Muertos. Prior to Spanish colonization in the 16^th century, the celebration took place in Mexico at the beginning of summer. Gradually, it was associated with October 31, November 1, and November 2 to coincide with the European Christian triduum of Allhallowtide: All Saints’ Eve, All Saints’ Day, and All Souls’ Day. Traditions connected with the holiday include building private altars called ofrendas, honoring the deceased using calaveras, Aztec marigolds, and the favorite foods and beverages of the departed, and visiting graves with these as gifts. Visitors also leave possessions of the deceased at the graves.

We don’t know what indigenous peoples in Mexico did before Spanish colonization because most of those cultures did not have writing systems. We have only oral tradition and archeology to rely on, and they do not tell us much.  At one time there was a festival in late August dedicated to the goddess Mictecacihuatl, (literally “Lady of the Dead”), Queen of Mictlān, the underworld, ruling over the afterlife with Mictlāntēcutli, her husband. Her role is to watch over the bones of the dead and preside over the ancient festivals of the dead. She now presides over the contemporary festival as well. The original Aztec celebrations dedicated to Mictēcacihuātl lasted an entire month, but under the influence of the Catholic church, the old celebrations were suppressed, and collapsed into the period of Hallowtide.

Here is a traditional recipe for pan de muerto (bread of the dead), offered and eaten on this day:

Ingredients

Starter

½  cup milk, lukewarm
1 tablespoon instant yeast
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
½  cup (60 gm) bread flour

Dough

2 tablespoons (28g) orange blossom water, rose water, or water
2 teaspoons orange zest (grated rind)
1 ½ teaspoons anise seeds
3 ½  cups (420 gm) bread flour
1 teaspoon table salt
½  cup (99 gm) granulated sugar
4 large eggs
16 tablespoons (226g) unsalted butter, cut in ½” cubes; at room temperature

Topping

6 tablespoons (85g) butter, melted
granulated sugar, for dusting

Instructions

To make the starter: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the lukewarm milk, yeast, sugar, and flour. Stir with a whisk or fork, cover, and set aside until the mixture begins to bubble, about 20 to 25 minutes.

To make the dough: Add the remaining ingredients (except the butter) to the starter. Using the flat beater attachment, beat at low speed until everything is combined.

Scrape the bowl and beater and switch to the dough hook. Knead at medium speed for 10 to 12 minutes, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed, until the dough pulls away from the sides and makes a slapping sound.

On low speed, add 3 tablespoons of the butter at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop the mixer and scrape the sides of the bowl as necessary.

Once all the butter has been incorporated, increase the speed to medium and beat for another 8 to 10 minutes, until the dough slaps against the bowl. It will be smooth, yet still a bit sticky; resist the urge to add more flour.

Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly greased bowl. Cover and allow it to rise until almost doubled, about 1 ½ to 2 hours.

Turn the dough out on to a lightly greased surface and gently fold it over on itself. Place the dough back into the bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.

To shape the Pan de Muerto: Remove the chilled dough from the refrigerator and let it rest in a warm spot for about 30 to 45 minutes to come to room temperature.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment.

Portion off one-quarter of the dough (about 280 gm). Divide that quarter into two pieces (140 gm each). Set them aside.

Divide the remaining three-quarters of the dough into two pieces (about 425 gm each). Shape each piece into a ball, then press down gently to make flatter rounds about 6″ in diameter. Place the rounds on the prepared baking sheet.

Divide each of the smaller pieces of dough into thirds (about 46 gm each), to make a total of six pieces. Shape two of the pieces into balls and roll the other four into ropes about 6″ to 7″ long. Pinch the ropes at intervals to make them look like bones.

Place two of the “bones” over one of the large dough rounds, crossing them in the middle. Place one of the small dough balls in the center and press down firmly to anchor it as securely as possible. Shape the rest of the dough the same way you shaped the first loaf, making a second loaf.

Cover the loaves and allow them to rise in a warm spot until doubled, about 1 to 1 ½ hours.

While the loaves are rising, preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.

To bake the Pan de Muerto: Bake the loaves for 20 minutes, until lightly browned on top. Open the oven and loosely cover both loaves with foil. Bake for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the loaves are fully baked and dark golden brown on the bottom and top.

Remove the loaves from the oven and let them cool slightly on the baking sheet, about 20 minutes.

To top the Pan de Muerto: Brush the loaves with the melted butter. Repeat a second time, brushing a section of the loaf with the melted butter and immediately covering that section with a generous amount of sugar, so the sugar sticks before the butter cools and dries. Continue buttering and sugaring the loaves section by section. Transfer them to a rack to cool completely before slicing.

Store the Pan de Muerto, well wrapped, at room temperature for several days.