Book of Days Tales

Today is the birthday (1833) of Alexander Porfiryevich Borodin, Russian Romantic composer, chemist, and physician. He was a member of the group of composers called The Five (or “The Mighty Handful”), who were dedicated to producing a specifically Russian kind of art music. He is best known for his symphonies, his two string quartets, “In the Steppes of Central Asia,” and his opera Prince Igor. Music from Prince Igor and his string quartets was later adapted for the U.S. musical Kismet. He was a notable advocate of women’s rights and a proponent of education for women in Russia. He founded the School of Medicine for Women in St. Petersburg.

There is no question that Borodin’s approach to harmonies, keys, and rhythms was original in a host of ways.  In his day there were many composers and critics who were mystified by his approach, not really grasping it and even deriding it.  But he left a mark. Both Debussy and Ravel acknowledged a debt, the latter writing a piano piece in 1913 entitled “À la manière de Borodine” in homage. Nor should it be overlooked that Borodin wrote some great melodies – so much so, that Robert Wright and George Forrest were able to adapt them for their highly successful musical Kismet, perhaps remembered still for “Stranger in Paradise” using a theme from the Polovtsian Dances of Prince Igor.  In 1954, Borodin was posthumously given a Tony Award for the music of this show.

I will fall back on St Petersburg recipes for Borodin.  The most well known of these is beef Stroganoff, supposedly invented there in a cooking competition. However, everyone cooks that – hardly an eye-opener.  Just be sure to use sour cream when you make it.  Instead I will go with solyanka, a rich soup/stew that is actually pan-Russian, but I’m told on good authority that they make a mean one in St Petersburg.  It is thick, slightly sweet, and sour, coming in endless varieties — meat, fish, vegetarian.  The common ingredient is cucumbers pickled in brine (not vinegar).  Solyanka comes from a root meaning “salt.”  In this version you should try to use as many different kinds of smoked meats as you can – sausages, different hams, ribs . . . Variety is important.

Ingredients:

Broth

1 ½ lb stewing beef
1 unpeeled onion, washed
2  unpeeled carrots, washed
1 whole washed, unpeeled head of garlic
2 stalks of celery, washed

Soup

2 lbs mixed smoked meats, diced
1 carrot, peeled and grated
1 onion, peeled and diced
4 brined cucumbers, diced small
5 tbsps tomato paste
3 tbsps capers
black pepper
3 bay leaves
vegetable oil
¼ cup olives sliced
sour cream
1 tbsp fresh dill plus garnish

Instructions:

Place all the broth ingredients in a large pot.  Cover with water.  Bring to a rolling simmer. Skim scum as it rises.  Cover and simmer about 1 ½ hrs, or until the beef is tender.

Remove the beef and let cool, then dice fine. Discard the vegetables.  Reserve the broth.

Sauté the smoked meats in a little vegetable oil in batches until lightly browned.  Reserve.

In a heavy skillet sauté the onions until translucent.  Add the carrots and continue cooking, then add the brined cucumbers and cook a few minutes more.  Add the tomato paste and a tablespoon of water and gently simmer for 5 minutes. Reserve.

Bring the beef stock to a rolling boil.  Add the smoked meats, beef, and capers.  Simmer for 5 minutes to heat the meats, then add the sautéed vegetables, olives, bay leaves, dill, and freshly ground black pepper to taste, and simmer covered for 15 minutes.

Serve in bowls with a dollop of sour cream mixed with dill (or pass a bowl for guests to serve themselves)

Serves 6-8