Book of Days Tales

Today is the birthday (1640) of Pu Songling (蒲松龄) an early Qing dynasty Chinese writer, best known as the author of Strange Stories from a Chinese Studio. Pu was born into a poor merchant family from Zichuan (now Zibo, Shandong). At the age of 19, he received the Xiucai degree in the civil service examination. It was not until he was 71 that he was awarded the Gongsheng degree for his achievement in literature rather than by passing the Imperial examinations at an earlier age –  equivalent to receiving an honorary doctorate in the West. He repeatedly failed the examinations because he did not have the money to bribe officials, a theme that emerges in his writing.

Imperial court food of the early Qing dynasty is legendary and profoundly influenced cooking down to the present day. There are extant detailed notes on dishes and the daily eating habits of the emperors. There are particularly detailed notes on Emperor Qian-Long (1711 to 1799). The dishes of his court became part of the general cuisine of the country. He had five chefs, an executive chef, and a steward who recorded every dish that was made, which chef made it, and how much of it Qian-Long ate.

For the main meal of the day there were about 40 dishes many of which he never tasted. He ate alone except for imperial banquets. Leftovers went to members of his family and retinue. Dishes were laid out the night before, and therefore eaten at room temperature. He was apparently very fond of duck but never ate beef. Many of the dishes had fanciful names such as Swallow Flying to the Moon, and Golden Hill Buddha.

One duck dish served often had its bones removed, the cavity stuffed with bamboo shoots, mushrooms, white meat of chicken, shrimp, sausage, and the neck meat of the duck. Eight items stuffed into this duck was preferred because eight is a lucky number. Later, this dish became known as Eight Treasure Duck. It is still a popular banquet item. He and the Empress loved it and records indicate they even enjoyed it at breakfast.

You can make Eight Treasure Duck at home provided you have a large, lidded wok. The eight ingredients are really up to you, but you should try to preserve a yin-yang balance. Modern cooks usually do not bone the duck although it is better if you do.

Eight Treasure Duck

Ingredients:

For the duck

1 whole duck (2.0 – 2.5kg)
2 tbsp dark soy sauce
1 tbsp 5 spice powder
Oil for frying (around 2.5 L)

For the filling:

2 pieces lap cheong sausage (cut into thin, diagonal strips)
½ cup dried lotus seeds (soaked 24hrs, then drained)
5 pieces dried Chinese mushrooms (soaked 24 hrs, then drained)
2.5 tbsp dried shrimps (rinsed and drained)
1 medium carrot, diced
1 ¼ cups glutinous rice (soaked 24hrs, then drained)
5 dried red dates, pitted
2 yolks of salted duck egg
2 ½ tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp Shao Xing wine

Instructions

Rub the soy sauce all over the duck and marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

Pour enough oil in a large wok so that when the duck is placed in it at least half the duck is covered. Heat to 350°F/175°C and carefully place in the duck. Fry until dark, not just golden, then turn it over to fry the other side. Remove and set aside.

Dice the mushrooms and chop the dried shrimps. Mix all the ingredients for the filling in a large bowl.

Stuff the cavity of the bird with the filling. Pat gently to enclose. Pour ¼ cup of hot water into the cavity.

Place the stuffed bird in a large, deep metal dish and steam in a wok on the lowest heat for 2 ½ hours, covered. Can be served hot or, more traditionally, at room temperature with glutinous rice (which traditionally was cooked in the wok beside the duck).