Book of Days Tales

On this day in 1822 Alexis St Martin, a Canadian fur trapper who was delivering furs to the fur trading post on Mackinac Island, was accidentally shot in the stomach at close range by a muzzle-loaded shotgun loaded with buckshot. This “happy” accident revolutionized the understanding of the workings of the human digestive system. St Martin was treated by a U.S. Army physician and surgeon, William Beaumont, who had seen such wounds as a doctor during the war of 1812, so he had considerable experience.  He did not have a university education, but had been through a doctor’s apprentice program and then enlisted in the army.  Beaumont did his best to treat the wound, but despite the fact that St Martin was a fit and healthy 20 year old, he was not expected to live. The shot had blown a hole in the skin, destroyed part of his ribs and muscle, and left a hole in his stomach. People did not survive such injuries in those days.

However, contrary to such a dire prognosis, he did live, and eventually his stomach and intestines returned to normal function over a period of weeks. When the wound healed itself, the edge of the hole in St Martin’s stomach had attached itself to the edge of the hole in his skin, creating a permanent gastric fistula (aperture into the stomach).  There was very little scientific understanding of digestion at the time and Beaumont recognized the opportunity he had in St. Martin.  He could literally watch the processes of digestion by dangling food on a string into St. Martin’s stomach.

In honor of St Martin’s stomach I am giving you a tripe recipe.  Tripe is, of course, the lining of the stomach of ruminants, and I am something of an aficionado. I’ve collected a little over 4,000 recipes from all over the world, and made a good stab at trying all of them in the course of 10 years. Sometimes I make 8 or 10 at a time.  Tripe is extremely popular worldwide, although it is no longer very well liked in Britain and the U.S.  Given the tripe and onions I had to suffer through as a child, I can understand. But tripe can be absolutely ambrosial if cooked properly.  Here is a recipe for deep fried tripe tacos from Mexico that I defy anyone to push aside after tasting them. The tripe must be precooked, which is the slightly unpleasant side.  Place the tripe in a heavy pot, cover with water and bring to a simmer.  Cook until al dente (about one hour).  It is very important to check the tripe periodically. It should be the same consistency as al dente pasta.  The odor of cooking can be cut significantly by putting a teaspoon of vanilla extract in the cooking water and covering the pot with a tight fitting lid (and turning on the stove fan).  This recipe makes 4 tacos, which is enough for one, if the “one” is me.  Obviously this recipe can be doubled or tripled etc.  Just be sure to cook the tripe in small batches. I don’t usually have an accompaniment but, of course, these tacos can be served as part of a larger Mexican meal with soup, guacamole, rice etc.

Deep Fried Tripe Tacos

Ingredients:

6 oz (170 g) cooked tripe
4 small flour tortillas
Tomatoes, cilantro, lettuce, onions, and radishes for garnish
Lime wedges
Cooking oil for deep frying

Instructions:

Chop all the garnishes finely and place in individual bowls.

Cut the tripe into small strips approximately 1 in x ¼ in (2.5 cm x .6 cm).  Size is not critical, but do not make them too small.

Pat the tripe pieces dry on paper towels.

Heat the oil in a deep fryer, or a heavy skillet with about 1 in (2.5 cm) oil to 325° F (160° C). If you do not have a thermometer, check by placing one piece of tripe in the oil.  It should bubble briskly immediately.

Fry the tripe in two batches until golden brown.  Remove with a slotted spoon or open mesh ladle (best).

Drain the tripe on a rack with a cookie sheet lined with paper towels underneath.

Place ¼ of the tripe in the center of each tortilla and serve on a platter. Garnish the tripe to taste and sprinkle each with lime juice.  Fold the tortilla over in half and eat. You MUST use your hands, this is street food.

Yield: 4 tacos