Book of Days Tales

The first Tuesday in March is Grandmother’s Day in France, but, as it happens, this year (2025) it is also Pancake Day (Shrove Tuesday) in England, so, we can combine the two and make versions of crêpes. You will need an egg batter and a crêpe pan. The crêpe pan needs to be about 18 cm/ 7 in across the base. It does not have to be non-stick but it helps. Make the egg batter by starting with one heaping tablespoon of all-purpose flour per egg (I usually start with 3 eggs). Put the flour in a mixing bowl and add cold water, whisking vigorously, until the mixture is the consistency of very heavy cream. Add the eggs one at a time, also whisking vigorously, and then let the batter rest for 30 minutes. Some cooks add milk, sugar, butter . . . whatever . . . to the batter. I don’t. The batter is also good for Yorkshire puddings, fried fish, toad-in-the-hole, and so forth.

Heat the pan over medium-high heat and when hot add a knob of butter. Swirl it round to coat the pan, and add a small amount of batter – just enough to coat the bottom of the pan. Shake the pan when the top of the pancake is dry. It should come loose. Flip it by hand, or with a spatula, and cook until the bottom is nicely browned.

Pancakes can be served with a meat/vegetable filling as a main course, or, on Pancake Day with fresh lemon and sugar. Today I am making a savory course of pancakes with minced lamb and leeks followed by classic lemon and sugar.